So my way of roughing when up north is living with the Indians at the local casino hotel. With a sharp eye I stay vigilant and quickly recognize openings in their defenses. Unlike General Custer, I dart from buffet to slot machine to roulette table ... escaping capture but sacrificing my loot to the Ottawa warriors.
Leaving with hardly my scalp, I head south ... anticipating a tranquil and leisurely drive back to South Haven ... but wait! As I cross over the bridge in downtown Manistee I look to my left and see a large ore freighter poised in Manistee Lake ready to make the trip through town to the open water of Lake Michigan. Now if you didn't live around here and you looked at this 600ft ship you'd conclude that this behemoth was sort of a ship in the bottle as there would be no way something this size could ever get to that inland lake through this little waterway that meandered through downtown Manistee. I quickly turned around and headed to mid-town to get a vantage point whereas I could take a few pictures of this ark of ore as it squeezed through.
Now driving this little 'boat' through this mile long channel might seem pretty easy and maybe it is but ... the waterway isn't straight. It requires a rather tight right turn just after the stern passes beneath the first bridge (see raised bridge in the background). If the turn isn't precise the ship can run aground on the right or smash into the left shore. Of course that's after crushing a dozen pleasure boats already docked there.
So if you think this waterway is not as small as I describe it and maybe this is all a little photo trickery... take a look at the guy fishing in the lower left corner of the image. Now here's a guy who can really complain about somebody stealing his favorite fishing hole.
As the boat got closer ... he correctly decided to retreat up the bank ... just in case.
Once the boat made the first turn he had to get lined up with the next bridge about 800ft away. She was already up tight against the pleasure boats but managed to use his bow thrusters and rudder to avoid pulverizing them and realign to center stream. Fighting a stiff wind and river current, this can't be easy.
Keeping the boat captain honest, the little minnow-like kayaks paddle along behind ... maybe pretending to be tub boats in waiting just in case the old girl drifts off course.
Built in 1929, the Maumee was the first self-unloading ore carrier on the Great Lakes. This technology revolutionized the shipping industry allowing ships to disgorge their cargo at ports that didn't have their own unloading equipment. Though I didn't know it at the time, an important piece of shipping history was passing before me... and I'm glad I did a little Googling later to uncover this part of the story.
As the old girl edged towards the big lake, I notice quite a number of folks had joined me river-side. Can't blame them as this is a sight that non-locals don't often see. One gent was taking pictures near me and asked if I followed this history of the great lakes boats. "I didn't" I said and he said he did ... noting that this may be the very last voyage for the old carrier. Having been on the sick and disabled list years past, apparently she's headed for the scrap heap after this trip. It's was only drawing about 20ft of water so I assumed it was empty. Water marks much higher up the hull indicated it usually carried a lot more weight. But those days are behind her now.
As she eased her way along the condo lined waterway, the crew was at the rail. These scruffy sea dogs were watching us watch them. I'm not sure who was enjoying the experience more.
Occasionally waving at the on-lookers, their young faces were weathered and well tanned. These were men of the sea.
With a slight course correction within 1/4 mile of the big lake, the majesty of this old boat could be finally seen in her 600ft entirety when the river widen. Rusty and worn. Survivor of of many a Great Lake storm. Her bow rode high in the water, maybe even a bit of pride showing as she knew she had a beat the odds and lasted for some 80 years doing the unglamourous job of hauling stuff most of us wouldn't recognize if a shovel full was placed at our feet.
I had the chance to witness a little of the Great Lakes shipping history today. Kind of a big deal for me, I think. In a age of 15 second sound bites, Twittering, and Facebook entries, this slow but steady old girl reminded me that once we had to do things methodically and over a period of time. This old ship's tasks were not easy, nor comfortable or without peril ... and yet she prospered and survived.
Easing past the Coast Guard station hidden behind her bow, the Maumee heads for open water and the trip through Lake Michigan and Lake Huron then on to Lake Erie.
Probably her last trip to Manistee.
The rest of the trip back to South Haven was not so eventfull but all that changed with the start of the new week. Stay tuned for supercharged Monday.....
It was a very good weekend. Old friends and old ships. A lot in common.
Still living the dream.
Phil